Totnes day trip — Jess’s Adventures

The guide

Totnes

Devon, England

Totnes Castle's Norman shell keep, looking down over the rooftops to the River Dart.

Getting there

London Paddington → Totnes — direct GWR trains on the Penzance line take from about 2h 33m, typically around 2h 45m to 3h, running roughly hourly every day, weekends included. Sunday trains are in by late morning — the 08:03 gets you there for 10:43 — so a Sunday day trip works beautifully. GWR's engineering bulletin for the weekend of 10–16 October retimes a few individual services, so double-check the day before you go.

Famous for

England's alternative capital. Totnes is where the Transition Town movement was born, and the town still wears it well: crystal shops and organic cafés alongside 400 years of merchant history. A Norman castle's shell keep crowns its steep mound with views down to the River Dart, the Brutus Stone in Fore Street marks where Brutus of Troy supposedly stepped ashore, and twice a week the market square fills with some of the best local produce in Devon.

Fore Street climbs steeply from the river — proper shoes recommended.

Where to eat

The Cott Inn's award-winning pub cooking, a mile and a half out at Dartington.

The Bull Inn — 102 High Street; organic gastropub with seasonal, veg-led cooking — mussels, roast squash with hot honey, nettle beer; open Sundays 8:30am–10:30pm.
The Cott Inn — award-winning dining pub at Dartington; sea bass, proper steaks and chips, one of the best-loved tables anywhere near Totnes.
The Wild Fig Deli & Cafe — a beloved lunch stop; the locals' answer to "where do we eat today?".
The King William IV — traditional bar and British kitchen, right in the centre; 4.6 out of 5 from over 400 reviews.

What to do

The Friday and Saturday market in the market square.

Eastgate Arch, rebuilt after the 1990 fire.

Totnes Castle — Norman motte-and-bailey; the shell keep crowns a steep mound with big views over the rooftops to the Dart.
The Friday & Saturday market — local producers in the market square: beer, bread, meat and veg from within a few miles.
Fore Street, the Butterwalk & Eastgate Arch — the covered Butterwalk's old stalls, 16th- and 17th-century merchant houses above the shopfronts, and the arch that once guarded the town gate.
The Brutus Stone — set into the pavement of Fore Street; legend says Brutus of Troy landed at Totnes and gave Britain its name.
Totnes Guildhall — a 1553 merchant's house turned guildhall; atmospheric and free, staffed by volunteers who love the place.
South Devon Railway — steam trains puffing from Totnes Riverside station, right beside the mainline station.
Dartington Estate — gardens, courtyard and a fine café a mile and a half out; an easy half-hour walk or a short bus ride.

Jess's favourite

Totnes Rare Breeds Farm

A 400-yard walk from the station, right beside the South Devon Railway. Pygmy goats, guinea-pig cuddles, alpacas and proper owl-handling sessions, open daily 10am–4pm. Jess's animal stop of the day, no question.

Good to know: Totnes is steep — the main street climbs from the river to the castle, so wear proper shoes and climb it slowly. Come Friday or Saturday for the full market. The mainline station sits across the river; it's a short walk over Totnes Bridge into town.

Jess plans her trips the week before, but trains have a mind of their own. Routes, times and fares in these guides were checked at the time of writing — engineering works, timetable changes and last-minute alterations can still happen. Please check your journey before you travel (National Rail Enquiries or the Trainline app) — and if a replacement bus sneaks in, we hope the day makes up for it.

Read Jess's diary of the day ↓

Jess's Day Off · Diary No. 10

Totnes: Steep Streets, Steam Trains and a Small Owl

Totnes, Devon

I woke up at 5:30am. Old habits. Even on my day off, the meerkats are in my head, standing to attention and demanding breakfast.

I caught the 08:03 from Paddington — two hours and forty minutes, barely enough to finish my flask of tea. I had a cheese sandwich, a notebook with three pages of Barnaby's latest dictation (a hedgehog, a very steep hill, and a disagreement about the fastest way up — I'll tell you when it's finished), and no plan beyond "Devon, see what happens."

The arrival

Totnes station sits on the wrong side of the river, which sounds rude but is actually lovely: you cross Totnes Bridge and the whole town is in front of you, climbing. And climbing. The main street goes up like a staircase, and at the top, a Norman castle keeps watch like it's still expecting trouble. The first thing I noticed was the quiet. No lion roars. No parrot opinions. Just a steam whistle somewhere below the town and somebody's bicycle.

The walk

I aimed for the Guildhall and immediately took my mandatory wrong turn — downhill, toward the whistling. Which is how I ended up at Totnes Riverside station, watching a steam engine breathe like a dragon, and right beside it, Totnes Rare Breeds Farm. Fate, honestly. The farm is a 400-yard stroll from the mainline station, and I'd be a poor zookeeper if I walked past pygmy goats.

The owl did it for me. A small owl with eyes like lamp buttons took my glove and then stared straight through me for a full minute, the way Barnaby stares when he's about to deliver a dictation. The guinea pigs were friendlier. One fell asleep in the crook of my arm and I nearly missed my own train home on purpose.

Back over the bridge, I walked up Fore Street properly this time — past the Brutus Stone (a pebble in the pavement with a whole legend attached), the covered Butterwalk stalls, and the Eastgate Arch — and huffed my way up the castle mound. The view over the rooftops to the River Dart was worth every stair. On the way down I watched a kingfisher flash blue along the water for one glorious second. I am still not over it.

The café

The farm has its own Garden Café, and I had no reason to leave. A sausage roll — one reviewer called them the best she'd ever tasted, and she was right — a bread pudding, and a seat outside while the steam trains came and went. Jess's pick, and I stand by it completely.

Home

Back in London by early evening. Tired, legs burning, notebook smelling faintly of goat. Happy.

Story seed

The hill did it. Pinafor wants to race to the top of a steep motte and beats Clarence to the first corner — then runs out of steam halfway and has to sit down. Clarence, who went up slowly and steadily, arrives breathing normally with a flask of tea. I'm writing it as the "slow is a speed too" scene.

Barnaby's text“You held an owl today, and neither of you flinched. A young keeper and her first raptor — that's a milestone, Jess. Mark it. Feel it. Earn the next one.”

— Jess

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